field school: Old Nemaska pt. 1

[apologies for the lack of updates: I've been busy finishing up assignments for the field school. Now that they're complete, I have two whole weeks before the fun starts again. That is, if you take 'fun' to mean long commutes, stacks of readings, and butt-numbingly uncomfortable desk chairs. I, generally, do not. But in another year I'll have a slip of paper certifying that the unfortunate loss of sensation will have been an acceptable sacrifice for the sake of my education.]

This trip was the first time that any of us had done ‘field work’ and getting into a comfortable groove took a little while. People didn’t really know why we were there, and were concerned that we’d be walking around with notepads jotting down conversations. We were new, and didn’t entirely know what our role was either. We didn’t want to impose and we didn’t want to come across only as detached observers. As we spend more time among the people at the gathering, we began to find our footing, and they began to open up to us. Our roles grew and developed out of the relationship that we established with the community. That’s fieldwork.

Old Nemaska

Lake Nemaska

field school: going to Old Nemaska

After spending the night in Nemaska, we packed our camping gear and drove down to the boat launch. It’s a 30-minute ride down the gravel access road, then 45-minutes by boat, plus whatever time you spend waiting for your transportation. The weather was wet and sporadically rainy, and we weren’t sure if we’d get a ride or have to set up our tents and sleep at the boat launch…

waiting for the boat to Old Nemaska

In the meantime, we enjoyed the rainbows that the rapidly-changing weather provided.

at the boat launch

A boat did eventually come along. By that time it was later in the evening – cold, wet and windy – and the boat was laden with supplies. It took us nearly an hour to get to Old Nemaska. The Cree Nation of Nemaska’s website has an aerial photo of the area. See that tip, at the bottom of the photo, right on the beach? That’s where we were. The wind whipped around us all night, howling and making the tent flap like crazy. The first thing we did the next morning was to find a spot closer to the woods…

home sweet tent

Of course, foul weather and drafty tents aside, words can hardly describe the sheer grandeur of our surroundings. How many classrooms get this kind of view?

big sky country

field school: Nemaska

Nemaska (where the fish abound) was the first community we visited. We spent just a night there before heading to the gathering at ‘Old Nemaska’, which had once been the site of a Hudson’s Bay Company post. Now people live there on-and-off throughout the year, including the two-week gathering every summer. Since we arrived in Nemaska several days after the gathering began, the town was largely empty and quiet.

recreational complex

youth center

field school: and away we go…

We left Maine on a Monday morning in an RV a.k.a. ‘Bubba’ a.k.a. our home away from home for the next three weeks. Five students and one professor (brave soul) from the University of Southern Maine. RV travellers to the Quebec Cree communities are extremely rare, which might have something to do with the fact that most of the roads are gravel, which provides the passenger with a sensation not unlike a massage chair. A rattly, dusty massage chair. We eventually became so accustomed to sleeping during the bumpy drives that smooth roads simply weren’t as relaxing. But in the beginning we were just a handful of RV-newbies, setting off on our northern quest…

meet Bubba
on the road

Oatmeal Rapids